In the courtyard in front of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris a small bronze medallion, known as Point Zero, marks the traditional centre of Paris. From this spot all distances in France are measured. One hundred kilometres to Paris means 100 kilometres to Notre Dame.
The official heart of Paris, indeed of France, lies literally at the doorstep of Notre Dame. It’s understandable then that to many French citizens the devastating fire that gutted the iconic cathedral on April 15 appeared to have burned the nation’s heart out.
As the inferno took hold, some people wept in the streets while others gathered in a nearby park and sang Ave Maria.
Frenchman Henri Astier wrote for BBC news, “It is impossible to overstate how shocking it is to watch such an enduring embodiment of our country burn.”
Effectively the headquarters of Catholicism in France, Notre Dame holds around 2000 services per year and holds some of the world’s most treasured Christian relics.
François Dupuigrenet-Desroussilles, professor in the Department of Religion at Florida State University said in a media statement, “Notre Dame is one of the most important Christian monuments in Europe. Built between the 12th and the 14th centuries for the archbishops of the capital of France, it is a monument of faith: In 1239, King Louis IX (Saint Louis) received Christ’s Crown of Thorns in Notre Dame.”
The importance of the Cathedral goes beyond religion. As Astier pointed out in his article, Notre Dame has stood tall over Paris since the 1200s. It is the most visited site not just in Paris but in all Western Europe.
Over the centuries Notre Dame has born witness to revolution and reformation and survived two world wars. It represents the French nation’s history and culture, its literature and its legends. Notre Dame represents 850 of the human story.
It is also an icon of world architecture.
“It is also a monument of art because of its Gothic architecture, its numerous statues and gargoyles that seem to watch over Paris, and the altar paintings in its nave commissioned by French kings,” Dupuigrenet-Desroussilles said.
Yet the years had wearied her. At the time of the fire Notre Dame was undergoing a massive renovation that was intended to preserve it for centuries to come. Instead it is suspected that perversely, the renovations may have led to its devastation.
Thankfully the outer shell of the cathedral appears to have been saved along with many of its treasures. Statues had been removed just days ago for off-site refurbishment.
The full extent of the devastation will revealed in time.
The French President Emmanuel Macron has vowed to rebuild the cathedral and hundreds of millions of Euros have been pledged towards its reconstruction, including by French billionaires, Bernard Arnault and Francois-Henri Pinault.
What a terrible shame the outpouring of love for the cathedral and pledges to restore it have come after it was left in ruins..
Memories of Notre Dame
Social media has been flooded with the memories posted by some of the millions of tourists who have visited the cathedral.
My own memories of Notre Dame are associated with another tragedy.
On September 10, 2001 I climbed the bell towers of Notre Dame with an English friend. We had enjoyed a weekend exploring Paris. We took in the glorious view of Paris alongside Notre Dame’s famous Chimera.
It was my last day in Europe before I flew home. While I was in the air between Singapore and Melbourne the September 11 attacks on New York and Washington were carried out. As I watched the horrific TV coverage I the bells of Notre Dame rang out in honour of the victims. It was surreal how the world had changed in the short time since I had stood by the bell.
I vowed that when the world felt safe again I would return to Paris and climb the bell towers of Notre Dame again. It took a decade but return I did; this time in 2011 with my partner. Together we took in the same Chimera’s-eye view of the city.
After watching the TV coverage today I pledge to see Notre Dame again. Although the bell towers appear to have been saved, it’s hard to imagine being able to climb them again. If I can’t I will stand at the heart of Paris by the Point Zero and look up.