There’s a lot more to do in French Polynesia than lay by a pool. Seriously, there is, including going for a hike. A number of hiking trails are available on the main island of Tahiti and also on the more picturesque neighbouring island of Moorea. The best known is the Three Coconuts Pass trail.
It’s possible to do this medium grade half day hike on your own but you would need transport to and from the trail head. Hire cars and taxis can be very expensive. We opted to do the hike with a professional guide after being warned that trails can be difficult to follow and aren’t always well waymarked. We also wanted to learn about the local environment and hiking scene from a guide.
We joined Michel from Tahiti Evasion for the relatively easy four-hour return hike. Michel collected us from our resort as part of the tour and drove us to the start of the trail near the Belvedere Lookout. Before starting the hike we had time to take in the views of the twin bays of Opunohu Bay and Cook Bay, which are split by the towering peak of Mt Rotu, and the plantations in the Opunohu valley – the crater of Moorea’s extinct volcano.
The trail undulates through forests of ferns and native mape trees before climbing steadily to the pass. Michel explains that the mape tree was used by Polynesian people as a form of communication. They would bang on the tree with a rock to create a sound like a drum beat that could send messages to neighbouring villages. Signs request that tourists not try it out.
The trail is clear all the way but there is not much waymarking. Inexperienced hikers could easily take a wrong turn so I’m glad for Michel’s guidance.
Although named the Three Coconuts Pass there is actually only one coconut palm remaining near the high point of the trail. As we reached our turnaround point we were rewarded with further spectacular views of the twin bays and the jagged peaks of the volcano’s rim. The highest peak, known as the shark’s tooth, loomed over us as we rested and were treated to fresh grapefruit by Michel. Never have I enjoyed a grapefruit more.
It is possible to link up The Three Coconuts pass with other nearby trails but, according to Michel, they were not currently open. He explained that the upkeep of trails is left largely to local guides with little support from authorities. A trail may be cleared for a particular high profile event, such as a trail race, but will then be left to become overgrown and closed again.
Tour operators have lobbied the French government over the past few years to establish a GR (Grand Randonné) hike over several days that would circle the rim of the volcano. Sadly, the French authorities are not yet coming to the party on that. If it ever comes to fruition we will be among the first to sign up for it.
For more information about guided hiking on Tahiti and Moorea with Tahiti Evasion visit http://www.tahitievasion.com/